Conservative Colombia left in the cold — for now

@wwaycorrigan

[Listen to an audio version of this blog entry here.]

So the last bastion of conservatism and right-wing populism in Latin America has fallen. Colombia has chosen a leftist president for the first time in its history.

A new dawn for Colombia? Gustavo Petro and Francia Marquéz celebrate their historic election win. (Photo from Facebook.)

The rains that fell incessantly on the capital city, Bogotá, as the results flooded in on Sunday 19 June were most likely viewed as cleansing waters from the heavens for supporters of now president-elect Gustavo Petro. Indeed, in a tweet, he did put the victory down to 'God and the citizens and their history (or story).'

New Colombia

For those who loathe the former rebel — and there are many in that category — the dreary weather must have felt like pathetic fallacy, heralding a decadent, possibly very unstable era.

In fairness, both Petro and the surprise-package challenger in this run-off contest, 77-year-old Rodolfo Hernández who ran on a strong anti-corruption ticket, were representing a change of sorts. Hernández — or the more "affectionate" Rodolfo as he goes by — was hardly mentioned as a serious contender a month or so out from the first election on 29 May.

His social media campaigning was Trumpesque, making particular use of TikTok. The plan for the former mayor of Bucaramanga appeared to be, 'don't give too much away and just say what many want to hear'. It nearly produced the hoped-for effect.

Petro, on the other hand, has been in the national political limelight for quite some time. Alongside his highly divisive guerilla involvement in the 1970s and 80s, he was elected to Colombia's lower house of Congress in 2002, became a senator in 2006 and won the Bogotá mayor's office in 2012. He also previously ran for president in 2010 and 2018.

'A taxi driver who voted for the winner told me it was a case of opting for the least-bad candidate. Or, to borrow from a saying in these parts, to avoid going from Guatemala to Guatepeor.'

This familiarity may have actually been a significant factor in getting Petro over the line this time. The loose-cannon nature of Rodolfo that displayed itself on numerous occasions worked to his rival's advantage.

As a far-from-euphoric taxi driver who voted for the winner told me, it was a case of opting for the least-bad candidate. Or, to borrow from a saying in these parts, to avoid going from Guatemala to Guatepeor — from bad to worse, basically.

Petrograd

The concerns of those against Petro are in relation to what is seen as his socialist agenda. 'He'll turn Colombia into another Venezuela', that's the common mantra.

A dramatic disruptor in the mould of Hugo Chávez, he is unlikely to be, however. Yes, he and, to an even greater extent, his vice president, the Afro-Colombian environmentalist and human-rights activist Francia Marquéz, represent something quite removed from those of the old Conservative/Liberal heritage who have dominated these offices before.

Yet, the idea that they'll tear down the existing state structures and construct an entirely new system seems somewhat farfetched.

The term, which begins on 07 August, is, after all, limited to four years with reelection constitutionally prohibited. What an administration with a potentially radical programme — and much to do with it — can achieve in such a timeframe in a rather legalistic country is open to debate.

Thus, paving the way for a successor will most likely be a high priority. The 'Petro Plan' is going to need more than four years to deal with the likes of deep-rooted inequality, to name just one of the country's many ills.

As outgoing President Iván Duque discovered in 2021 with his tax-reform proposals — a perennial problem here — opposition in Colombia can be fierce and bring together disparate sections of society.

Mentioning Duque, when he hands over the reins to Petro he'll have just turned 46. One gets the feeling, however, that he'll be happy to end his career in Colombian politics when he vacates Casa de Nariño, unlike his mentor, the president from 2002 to 2010, Álvaro Uribe.

Whatever lies in store for Duque, these next four years for Colombia are certainly set to be intriguing.

While many thought it would never happen, Petro's big moment has arrived. For sure, he'll face many obstacles as, it would appear, about half the country won't want him to succeed, some of whom wield considerable power in various influential spheres.

Yet, for the other half, he is the president they have been waiting for to make what they see as the necessary changes to finally improve their lot.

It's now time to deliver, Presidente Petro. Your enemies aren't willing to stay in the cold for long.
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Listen to Wrong Way's Colombia Cast podcast here.

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Making ends meet in Colombia

@wwaycorrigan

[Listen to an audio version of this blog entry here.]

A few weeks back, on one of my pueblo escapes from Bogotá — to La Paz, Santander, precisely speaking — I had an interesting conversation with a man about Colombia's less well-off.

Colombia's campesinos: Humble but happy?

He was of the opinion that one couldn't objectively class the majority of the country's rural dwellers as poor. Of course, officially speaking, most measures of poverty here support this view.

Andean autarky

However, there is a perception, not only from outside observers but also from some locals, that the country folk — the campesinos — have it quite tough.

For sure, as my pueblo acquaintance remarked, there is abject poverty in many parts of Colombia, particularly in the peripheries, but in the market towns and their hinterlands of the Andean and significant parts of the Orinoco regions, people seem to live relatively comfortably.

Many have their small plot of land, grow various crops, keep fowl and other livestock for their own consumption and want for little when it comes to the bare necessities.

OK, the internal conflict here brought much strife and no end of worries for many but that situation has been improving of late — for the most part, in any case.

'Another positive for the ordinary pueblo life is that these wild price fluctuations when it comes to socialising and the like aren't generally a factor.'

Nonetheless, recent arrivals here from high-income nations are often shocked to see what many locals survive on. Obviously, when average wages are viewed in dollar or euro terms, they are paltry. But it's the peso we deal in here.

Keeping it tight

Right now, as a single, childless man, I get by, on average, on about 1,200,000 pesos per month. This is slightly higher than Colombia's minimum wage, but I am in the relatively expensive capital city.

My monthly rent, at 550,000 is, unsurprisingly enough, the single biggest item of expenditure. Such an amount in most small towns would get me my own place — I house share in Bogotá.

Of course, this means I'm always quite budget-conscious; buying fruit and veg on offer on any given day rather than going for what I might ideally want, keeping clothes purchases to pretty much the essentials, things like that.

This rather parsimonious path — some may view it as being tight-fisted — is perhaps an overcorrection to being a tad reckless with purchases in my earlier adulthood. Seeing my father get into financial difficulty after making hare-brained investments with money he didn't really have during Ireland's Celtic Tiger years also plays its part.

The fact I don't currently have a steady income is a major factor, too. It tends to check any desire to splurge. One must cut one's cloth accordingly.

'The grass isn't greener over there'

Now, this isn't to say I don't have a lively social life. By any measure, I do. Yes, it is largely limited to the barrio beat, a drawback for some people. I, however, am loath to spend what are akin to Irish/UK prices in some of Bogotá's swankier parts. As a further positive for the ordinary pueblo life, such wild price fluctuations when it comes to socialising and the like aren't generally a factor.

I also travel fairly frequently, in the Andean region in any case.

It must be noted, unfair as it may be, that as a native English speaker I can command higher prices per hour for any English-related work compared to most locals. It's how the free market rolls, isn't it?

Bargain Bogotá: Quality (of sorts!), at an acceptable price.

So, with my minimalist lifestyle, particularly since the coronavirus pandemic, I've been able to live off the odd relatively well-paid project, remaining largely in control of my own time. As mentioned above, though, not having a regular, reliable income does have its negative aspects.

Another problem for somebody from a high-income nation but now living in a middle-income country and earning an average wage in that territory is that any visit home becomes quite expensive.

This isn't a "complaint" on my part; it was, after all, my free choice to come and live here. (And, if I'd heeded the not-so-gentle hints from La Cancillería Colombia, I probably would have left at least four years ago!)

The majority of Colombians, to state the obvious, are born with this problem. If they want to leave their homeland to earn the "bigger bucks" in the likes of Canada, Europe or the USA, it can be quite the financial undertaking. This is particularly so if they've no pre-existing family support in such places.

That is if they want to leave. As my pueblo parcero pointed out, some — even if they may outwardly play the poverty card — are quite content with their lot. That grass may not be as green as it seems over yonder.
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Listen to Wrong Way's Colombia Cast podcast here.

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Set on singlehood

@wwaycorrigan

[Listen to an audio version of this blog entry here.]

A few weeks ago on BBC Radio 2's Jeremy Vine Show, there was a discussion about lifelong singletons.

Better off alone? For the moment, yes!

Considering my relationship status and general outlook, the topic piqued my interest.

Not in it to win it

While there were few nuggets of wisdom from the "expert" contributor and various callers, I certainly could resonate with the observation that non-single folk tend to make assumptions about those of us going it alone.

Chief among them is the questioning of one's sexuality. Regardless of sexual preference, the idea that an individual might be simply content not to be hooked up or constantly playing the dating game appears to be unthinkable for some. 'There must be something deeper at play.' Or so it goes.

For me, the main reason I'm single — in terms of things that are within my control in any case — is that I find dating a tedious affair. Thus, if one isn't really playing the game then one can hardly expect to "win" it.

OK, I do dabble in some dating apps, mostly out of boredom and curiosity, and I do get matches. Yet, even if the initial conversation is promising, I usually lose interest very quickly.

'Here in Colombia, if any potential suitor were happy for the wining and dining to take place in my beloved barrios, then we might be on to a winner. Alas, very few appear up for that.'

Obviously, the idea is to arrange an actual physical meeting but, based on previous form, I generally come to the conclusion that it'll be a waste of time and money. Once bitten and all that (see, for one, https://wwcorrigan.blogspot.com/2017/05/a-prostitute-by-any-other-name.html).

People may point to the frequently cited "commitment issues". That might be a factor yet, like in anything, one wants to see some potential in the project before committing.

It must be noted that my current location plays a part in all this, too. I live fairly frugally in a country where many women — the ones I often meet anyway — expect the man to lavishly wine and dine them from the get-go. And to do so indefinitely.

For sure, bringing it back to basics for a moment, the male of the species in the majority of cases has to do much of the initial wooing. The task is to convince the female that he has the right attributes to father offspring. As advanced as we Homo sapiens are — some of us anyway — these instincts are still at play, even if procreation is not the desired goal.

In modern times, this generally means financial security, a solid career, popularity, reliability and such like, regardless of the country.

Foreign woes

Here in Colombia, if any potential suitor were happy for the aforementioned wining and dining to take place in my beloved barrios (see https://wwcorrigan.blogspot.com/2021/08/bogotas-perpetual-corner-bar-barrio.html), then we might be on to a winner. Alas, very few appear up for that.

This isn't to say that available women don't frequent these barrios. Of course they do. It's just many of them, from my observations, prefer to stick to their own tribe, particularly so when they realise the "exotic" foreigner is not as wealthy as their preconceptions had led them to believe. 'You're not loaded, you don't dance. Next.'

Therefore, I might actually have a better chance of finding a relationship companion in a country with less inequality. That's the theory in any case.

In one aspect, however, having a partner in Colombia could potentially save me money. Or at least save me from entering into risky compromises. I could use it as a reason to refuse these regular loans I've been giving out over the last few years (see https://wwcorrigan.blogspot.com/2021/10/the-barrio-banker.html). 'Sorry, marica, but I've no money left to lend, I've spent it all on the missus.' Something to that effect.

Do I see myself being a lifelong singleton? Well, I'm no clairvoyant but the 19 years of adulthood I've had thus far suggest the safer bet is to be on the yes side of that question. And, as alluded to, I'm not desperately trying to change my current relationship status.

Nonetheless, one never truly knows what the future holds.
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Listen to Wrong Way's Colombia Cast podcast here.

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Saboyá, Boyacá: A rare hotel-less Colombian town

@wwaycorrigan

[Listen to an audio version of this blog entry here.]

It used to surprise me somewhat how even the most insignificant and sleepy Colombian towns had at least one hotel to host the occasional passer-by.

Saboyá: One could sleep in the church if it was open. 

I'd often wonder how the owners made money from the business. For one, for many of these small-town hoteliers, from my observations, renting rooms is simply a bit on the side or a hobby for retirees.

Sleepless in Saboyá

If they're lucky, a couple or so times a year they get the chance to cash in during festivals and holiday high seasons.

Whatever the case, after over ten years of visiting such small urban settings, particularly in the Andean region, I've now come to expect every one of them to have a hotel or some sort of tourist lodgings.

So, rocking up to the Boyacá town of Saboyá and discovering it is inn-less was quite the shock.

Having walked practically every street in a vain search, I called into the police station, figuring they'd know of some accommodation options.

'It had all the hallmarks of being a very quiet, peaceful night's sleep in the countryside. A number of mosquitoes ruined all that.'

The first thing one officer said to me was that there were plenty of hotels in nearby Chiquinquirá, 11 kilometres to the south. Eh, excellent. But not exactly what I was looking for. My plan was to stay in the tranquil town, not to go back from whence I came. (My exploring of the far bigger Chiquinquirá with its many hotels and churches — it's dubbed the religious capital of Colombia — would come 24 hours later, but I had to pass through there to get to Saboyá.)

There are plenty of accommodation options in the nearby and much bigger Chiquinquirá. 

Thankfully, there was a solution. The police officer told me of a house about three kilometres outside the town that had rooms for nightly rent.

Wrong Way glamping

In fact, the main business of Alojamiento Rural Prados de Piedra Pintada is glamping. A couple can hire a dome for a, um, mere 275,000 pesos per night, breakfast and three hours of jacuzzi use included.

It was, as much as it might surprise the regular reader, a tad outside my budget for this particular mini-escape from Bogotá. I settled for a spacious ensuite room for 35,000 pesos, about 10,000 pesos more than I'm used to paying on such trips.

Alojamiento Rural Prados de Piedra Pintada: It could do with a jazzier name.

For one night, I felt it was worth it. It had, after all, the hallmarks of being a very quiet, peaceful night's sleep in the countryside, a chief reason I'd left Bogotá in the first instance.

That was until a number of mosquitoes at various intervals came buzzing around my ear, thus ensuring broken sleep. At just over 2,600 metres above sea level, it's surely close to the limit of the range for these winged warriors. Close but unfortunately not quite outside their combat zone. Oh well.

The hotel room I had in Chiquinquirá the following night was free of such pests. It was also, unfortunately, free of any natural light brightening up its four walls. Trade-offs, eh?

Glamping: You can look but you can't go in (unless you pay 275,000 pesos). 

Back to Saboyá, while it might be hotel-less, it's not without its friendly folk. (Incidentally and curiously enough, the names of two of the locals I befriended had an Arabic flavour to them; the affable yet unobtrusive tienda owner, Omar, and the farmer, Samir.)

Omar, on hearing my surprise at the dearth of accommodation in the town, is now thinking about making a few rooms available at his establishment for peso-pinching peripatetics like me. So he said anyway, although not quite in those words.

Thus, I'll have to return in a few months to see if he has come good on that idea. If so, I'll be in line for my cut of the profits.
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