Happy in Jenesano

@wwaycorrigan

[Listen to an audio version of this blog entry here.]

Well, it may have taken 19 months, but I finally managed to swap the Bogotá beat for some pastoral peace, of sorts. (I'm discounting, due to their brevity, this year's day escapes on foot to Cota and La Calera as well as a bike ride and subsequent 24 hours in Cajicá.)

Jenesano's main plaza, the standard Colombian layout.

And like the last time I left the Colombian capital for a few nights, it was to the Boyacá department once again — the small (although big enough by Irish standards) market town of Jenesano and surrounds on this occasion, to be precise.

Close encounters

Some may wonder why I don't opt for more exotic locations, the argument being, as previously stated on this blog, that once you've seen one Boyacá pueblo (small town) you've practically seen them all.

There's merit to that viewpoint. Yet in terms of largely hassle-free travel, towns to the north of Bogotá tick many boxes for me. I live a five-minute walk from the city's northern bus terminal, so travelling north means I avoid most of the metropolis' traffic mayhem.

Yes, there's much more to the north of Bogotá than Boyacá, however, when it's only a few days' break, I don't want to spend too much time in transit.

The reason I chose Jenesano was simply that a barrio buddy mentioned it to me, he's due to work in the town next year.

'I've observed that urban centres in Colombia's warmer lands often have a rough side to them. This may have something to do with the growth of a certain cash crop. That and the politics at play.'

At 2,100 metres-above-sea-level, it's a little warmer than Bogotá. Just a little that is — it's certainly not tropical.

Par for the course in these parts, rolling hills abound. Equally standard are dubiously domesticated dogs guarding every dwelling. Most are in the bark-worse-than-bite category but it's always a good idea to have a lump of a stick with you just in case.

Now, why exactly this was so I'm not sure, but Jenesano was previously called Genazzano after the Italian province of the same name, which translates as 'healthy people' or 'healthy town'.

Back to one's roots, kind of: harvesting arracachas.

I must say, I didn't see anything that points to the locals here being healthier than other Colombians. Indeed, if the lads who were football training are anything to go by, they could do with consuming fewer arepas.

For sure, the pace of life is certainly more relaxed and one would have fewer security concerns here compared to Bogotá, but that's quite a low bar.

What I tend to like about such agricultural towns with a mild climate is that the locals generally leave you to your own devices. I've observed that urban centres in Colombia's warmer lands often have a rough side to them. This may have something to do with the growth of a certain cash crop. That and the politics at play.

Mucking around

So while I would have been quite content to do my own thing in Jenesano, a random encounter with an older couple in a tienda bar on my first night meant I got a whole different, more fulfilling experience.

The couple and I were minding our own business until I ordered my second 850-ml Club Colombia (don't worry, Poker, it was purely for the novelty factor of the new bottle size for this brand — it won't become a habit). The young bartender, bless her, asked me what part of the USA I was from.

Of course I told her that not everyone who speaks English-accented Spanish is from the US. When I asked her to guess where I'm from, the couple took an interest.

'The five-kilometre wander to the slightly higher and slightly bigger Ramiriquí did take place the next day. Pleasantly surprisingly, there was a scarcity of annoying dogs en route.'

Thus began my friendship with Jenesano blow-in, José — he's from San Juan de Rioseco in Cundinamarca originally — and his local wife, Lucila.

They told me about their finca, farm if you will, on the hills outside the town and invited me to go up the next day. They were set to dig up and bag their arracacha harvest (arracacha, or racacha as it's also called, is a root vegetable, kind of like yuca but with a yellow-ish colour and, as far as I'm concerned, a much better taste).

Ramiriquí and beyond.

I postponed my half-plan to walk to the nearby Ramiriquí and accepted the couple's invite. I wasn't there just to make up the numbers, either. I, quite literally, mucked in, getting my hands dirty, putting into piles the dug up arracacha and then separating the edible root from the plant. A change is as good as a rest and all that.

José and Lucila did look after me for my endeavours, it must be noted. It wasn't exactly slave labour.

Not only that, but after a few "celebratory" beers back in Jenesano, they came to my rescue. Dropping me off at my hotel at the, um, ungodly hour of about 10.30 pm, there was no one attending the inn to let me in — shame on you, Hotel El Palacio.

After waiting in vain for a few minutes, the friendly couple brought me back to their house and gave me a bed, a very comfortable one at that, for the night. You see, sometimes it is good to befriend the locals.

The five-kilometre wander to the slightly higher — about 200 metres to be more exact — and slightly bigger Ramiriquí did take place the next day. Pleasantly surprisingly, there was a scarcity of annoying dogs en route.

While I only passed the afternoon in the town, it does seem to have a nice vibe to it. It also has decent and reasonably priced coffee from a number of cafés on its quaint main square, always a major plus point that.

For those looking to work up more of a sweat, there's a decent trek up to a chapel to the south-east that offers a landscape view of both Ramiriquí and Jenesano as well as Ciénega to the north-east, about six kilometres further on from Ramiriquí.

For my last day in Jenesano, I returned to José and Lucila's farm to pick up some arracacha to bring back to Bogotá with me. See, it wasn't a, um, rootless journey.

The couple then drove me to Tunja, Boyacá's capital city, where they had a few messages to run. I accompanied them for the afternoon before they dropped me off at the bus terminal.

The random things that can happen when you escape the monotony and explore pastures new, eh? The next adventure can't come quick enough.

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A rewarding Vélez view

Regular readers of this blog (stop it, there are some) will know I'm generally happiest when on the move.

That tends to mean travelling, but it can also refer to feeling busy, having lots to do from a 'fulfilling' work point of view.

Vélez from a high.

On that latter front, however, and not really by design, it has been quieter than usual. It's been a bit like the old Irish back-to-work scheme, Fás; one week on, one week off (although with less money coming in to the coffers in this case).

Nonetheless, after over six years of this come-day, go-day employment whilst looking for something more serious — it's Latin America, things move slowly here do remember — one learns to budget for the lean times, ensuring there's money available for the things that matter most.

In this regard, when there's no pressing need to be in Bogotá, that means getting out of the place. Plus, a little getaway from the capital doesn't have to cost an awful lot, doing it the 'Wrong Way' way, in any case. (Choosing locations that aren't on the main tourist trail usually means you'll find plenty of value, in terms of accommodation if nothing else.)

So following on from the recent trip to Guaviare, this time the town of Vélez — the unofficial bocadillo (guava jelly) capital of Colombia — in the Santander department was on the radar. The only reason I knew of it was because a rather crazy (aren't all Santandereanas that way?) ex-fling is from there.

That might be reason enough for some to stay away from the place, but that particular bridge has seen plenty of water pass under it. What's more, buses to Vélez go via Bogotá's northern terminal, a very convenient 15-minute walk from my current abode.

Being a four-hour drive or so away, it doesn't really fall into the backpacker favourite 'leave at night, arrive in the morning' category. Those journeys are great in terms of 'saving' on a night's accommodation for a traveller, but when you're already living in the country and paying monthly rent, the benefits of them are significantly reduced.

In any case, at 28,000 COP (about eight euros) one-way, the daytime trip doubles up as a sightseeing tour, without the regular stops. Some of the views along the way in this mountainous terrain, especially after the city of Tunja, are pretty impressive.

Vélez itself, or more precisely its setting, is impressive as well. The thing is, we're spoilt for choice in these parts as regards quaint, colonial-style towns in hilly surrounds, replete with stand-out cathedrals/churches. On top of this, other similar places might be more 'tourist ready', so to put it.

Notwithstanding that, I for one don't get tired of checking out a different location on a regular basis — a change and a break from Bogotá life all in one.

Indeed, Vélez isn't really a tourist hub for the very reason that it doesn't seem to be set up that way. For some, this can be a frustration. "Tell us what's there to do and see here, please."

More impressive views.

From a personal point of view, if there are a few adjacent hills to wander up in peace and quiet, I'm happy out. Get the obligatory panoramic view of the place in question. On this score, Vélez came good.

Now, it wasn't clear if the trail I went on is meant for public use. It looked more trodden by cattle than trekkers and there are gates and fences to cross, but of the few people I encountered at the start, no one told me I shouldn't be doing it.

In fact, in general, the good folk of Vélez, Veleños as they're called, tend to leave you to your own devices. From what I experienced, they'll only engage if you do firstly; suits me down to the ground that.

Public trail or not, those hills to the south-west of Vélez offer some nice views over the town and surrounding countryside — if and when the clouds go away, that is. Plus, there is a statue of the Virgin Mary in the vicinity of where I walked, so I'm guessing it is an attraction of sorts.

The route I took, though, didn't appear to be the correct one to get to that; I approached the Virgin from, um, behind. In defence, when I got there, I couldn't find a clearer alternative approach, honestly.

Thankfully, the clouds largely cleared around midday and I found myself a nice little isolated spot to take in the sun and simply enjoy the scenery and tranquillity. Simple pleasures.

That probably best sums up Vélez: simple pleasures. Ignorance might have resulted in my missing out on a host of attractions around the place. Yet the whole idea of this mini-break from Bogotá was to do my own thing, annoyed by nobody. Vélez satisfied that want. Pity I can't say that about the ex from there.

*Hotel Agatá has comfortable en suite rooms with a TV & WiFi from 15,000 COP per night.
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