An Arauca awakening

As we've mentioned before here, Colombia's popularity as a tourist destination has never been higher. The country is very much in fashion, not just among backpacking types but for a range of tourists. 

In many ways, it could be argued, we're just at the start of this upward swing. The potential for sustained growth in this sector appears substantial, like the size of the country itself (for the record, of Colombia's 32 departments, three are bigger in area than the island of Ireland).

'You are now entering Tame, Arauca.' (Photo from Facebook.)

We already have fairly well-established areas such as Cartagena, Santa Marta and their surrounds on the Caribbean coast, the Eje Cafetero (coffee region), Medellín and the capital city Bogotá to name the most obvious.

There are other areas, however, that are practically virgin territory when it comes to tourism, and more or less anything else for that matter. Vast tracts of the previously written about Caquetá and Putumayo, for example, fall into that category.

Another department that has plenty to boast about but is rarely even considered as a place to visit is Arauca on the eastern extremes, bordering Venezuela. It's part of Colombia's vast Llanos or plains; in over-simplified terms, cowboy country.

As has been the case with most of the country's other more remote locations, one big reason why tourists, both those from inside and outside, were reluctant to visit was down to the internal conflict. Now, however, with the Farc and paramilitary problems fading post the peace agreement, the associated security concerns are also abating.

What's more, in this air of optimism circling around Colombia, coming from both near and far, everybody's looking to get some warmth (strike it rich, we could say) from this new positive light. And why not?

Tame's historical role in Colombia is evident. (Photo from Facebook.)

To this end, those working in Arauca's fledgling tourism sector certainly don't lack energy and enthusiasm. The problem, though, is getting their message out to a wider audience in a country full of beauty spots, varied as many of them are. Other Colombians are unaware of the region's attractions, never mind outsiders.

As Carlos Alberto Duque, the creator of the Colombia Realismo Mágico slogan and who realises the tourism potential Arauca has, puts it: "Each place has sights to show off, a story to tell, but not many are good at getting the message out there."

Arauca's location doesn't help either. By bus, it's a good 12-hour trip from Bogotá just to reach its borders and, on the way, the argument could be made that you pass places more or less equal in terms of landscape and culture. Coupled with this is the fact that, for many backpacking types, it's unnecessarily off the beaten track, basically a 'road to nowhere', considering Venezuela is off-limits for most right now.

That aside, while our short visit to Tame was mostly taken up with the town's annual festival, the all-round tourism pull the place has is evident.

For starters, what's a negative is also a positive. Not many tourists come here, so as tends to happen in such places, the locals are even friendlier than the Colombian norm. There also doesn't appear to be any 'gringo prices' in operation.

Some of Tame's, um, impressive sights ...

For bird watchers, the region is fluttering with delights. Indeed, its wildlife in general is a big selling point (and a reason why we'll be keen to return to go on the look for caiman, giant turtles and monkeys to name just a few). 

Throw in the fact that over half the area of the Sierra Nevada del Cocuy National Park, home to Colombia's third highest peak, is situated in Arauca and nature lovers have plenty of reasons to visit.

From a cultural point of view, outside of the cowboy and meat-eating lifestyle, there is an indigenous influence in certain aspects, something that the locals seem eager to enhance and promote. 

Tame itself is known as the 'cradle of freedom' (cuna de libertad), the place where Latin America's great liberators Simón Bolívar and General Francisco de Paula Santander met for the first time, just weeks before the decisive Battle of Boyacá in 1819. This is honoured with an impressive monument of the two men seated in conversation.

Another not-very-well-known attraction is Arauca's cacao. The department is actually home to award-winning chocolate on an international level. Chocolate could become for the region what coffee is for the Eje Cafetero, which draws tourists all year round.

Specifically, in relation to the town of Tame, its climate is relatively fresh for a low-lying tropical region. So even with temperatures over 30 degrees Celsius, it doesn't feel overbearing thanks to the refreshing breeze blowing about.

With plans afoot to develop a 'Ruta de los Llanos', basically a multi-departmental tourism-focused way through the plains, Arauca's delights could be set to become more accessible and widely known.

An 'Arauca awakening' of sorts. You read it here first!

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Tocaima's toxic teens, fair-weather police

"Be careful lads, it's not safe to walk around here on your own at night." "Yeah, yeah, we hear you. Don't worry, though, we're well used to perceived 'dodgy' areas, we'll be fine."

After over five years living in Colombia socialising, usually without problems, in places that some more well-to-do locals see as dangerous, we tend not to take too much heed of the oft-given advice such as that above. We generally find that the locals security fears are, thankfully, unfounded.

Tocaima: A quaint town, if only it could deal with its delinquents.

This is usually even more so the case when we're talking about Colombia's smaller towns, however popular or not they may be.

So on a recent trip to one such small town, Tocaima, a three-hour spin outside Bogotá, when the locals told my travel companion and I that it wasn't safe at night, we were quite blasé about it.

What we hadn't factored in, however, were over a dozen pumped up young lads (is there any other kind?) looking to lay down a marker to the only foreigners in the village. Luckily for us, the older townsfolk of a far friendlier disposition (not hard to be in this case) spotted the danger and ensured we avoided the planned assault.

Unlike the fair-weather, indifferent — nay incompetent — police officers on duty, these young men weren't going to let a long-lasting, torrential downpour wash out their plans to get their lucrative prize.

On the contrary, they split up and occupied strategic positions along what was a three-minute walk back to our hotel. 

Indeed, the police here could do worse than to take note and learn from these young thugs, if they weren't so damn lazy that is. (OK, eventually, although reluctantly, one officer escorted us back to the hotel, which incidentally was located directly opposite the police station, after being pressurised into doing so by the owner of the bar we were in and some other concerned bystanders.)

So while it all passed off without incident in the end, save for a few aggressive staredowns from our wannabe attackers while we took refuge in the bar, it did sour somewhat our time in Tocaima.

'Any police about?' Not ones that seem willing to work anyway.

It's not a bad town and could be seen as a quieter alternative to the more popular Girardot and Melgar in terms of warmer-weather, short escapes from Bogotá. 

Yet, if young lads such as the ones we almost got robbed by are allowed to run amok, with what seemed like the connivance of the police, the chances of the place growing in terms of tourism are slim to none.

With Colombia ‘open to the world’ as a recent tourism expo put it, places such as Tocaima could do with, at the very least, having a police force that seems willing to prevent crime — all the other social inequality problems the country has to deal with notwithstanding.

As it is, these delinquents, what we can describe as the bad or, better said, toxic apples are rotting the place as a whole. It doesn't have to be that way, guys.
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Applying for Colombia's TP-7 (independent) visa

Over the last while we've had a number of people ask about the process of obtaining an independent visa in Colombia, a TP-7 as it's called. Another sign, perhaps, of the country's global appeal right now.

Whatever the case, while the official website goes through the documents needed, there are a few grey areas that leave applicants with doubts. Then, of course, there's the fact that it's at the discretion of the official in charge of your application whether to approve it or not, as it is in most countries. This is something that's out of your hands, you might just get the wrong official on the wrong day.

'Visa? What visa?!' (Photo from Facebook.)

Be that as it may, in terms of the documents required, from previous personal experience anyway, it's pretty straightforward.

First of all, it must be said that you can make the application in the country. So if you're already here on a tourist visa or whatever, you don't have to leave.

In terms of the paperwork, you need a letter, in Spanish obviously, stating the independent activity you are carrying out or intend to carry out, and your CV.

Alongside this, you must supply documents that prove you do or are going to do this activity. These could be letters from parties -- individuals or companies -- that you are collaborating with and who are already based in Colombia or have legally verifiable reasons to be here. From the 'Wrong Way' perspective, evidence of freelance-journalism work in relation to Colombia has been used, along with letters from other people and companies who I’ve collaborated with.

You also need documents proving that you are qualified to perform the role in question. These are basically copies of university degrees and the like (for the record, I've never had to provide translated versions, copies of the originals have been fine).

Perhaps the most troublesome, confusing part is meeting the financial requirements. It states that you have to show 15 times the monthly minimum salary, that is to say just over 3,500 euros, running through your bank account for the last six months. What's not very clear is does this mean 3,500 euros each month -- a hefty amount indeed -- or just that sum for six months?

Obviously, I've always sided with the lower amount. However, it was an issue for my second time applying, where I was told I didn't quite meet the financial stipulations but they would let me off on this occasion and give me the visa.

The following year, with pretty much the same figures in the account to show, it didn't come up as a problem at all (here's hoping it stays that way for visa application number four later this year). Hearsay has it that this 'anomaly' was to do with the number of movements made in the account and that it's best to have money coming in and going out on a frequent basis.

Nonetheless, however they determine this financial threshold, which appears to be arbitrary, for first time applicants who may not have a Colombian bank account, foreign accounts suffice -- they did in my case, anyway. For further renewals, officials, some of them that is, give more weight to your Colombian account(s) if the activity you'd been doing enabled you to earn a wage in the country.

Having an actual, clearly specified figure might help to clear up a few things here. Just saying like!

On a minor point, but one that might save you a few pesos, you don't need to bring passport photos for the application procedure. The officials take your photo during the interview process, one that will be used on your visa if successful.

It is said that the TP-7 is the hardest of the visas to get, but there does appear to be some flexibility in the granting of it. We are in a time where there are a lot more independent workers about than previously. 

If that happens to be you, your work is related to Colombia and you're looking to stay here on a longer-term basis, all you've got to do is convince the authorities of that (and then pay the more than one million pesos needed, including the fee for the compulsory ID card that is). Simple!

Failing that, there's always the civil union option, disingenuous as some are about it.
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St Patrick's Day with Bogotá's Irish

It's fair to say that it's largely down to the Irish Americans, those in the US to be clear, that St Patrick's Day is as big and wide-reaching a celebration that it is these days. They glamorised, as only they can, what had been back in its origin of Ireland a pretty tame affair.

Of course, they've caught on back home; Paddy's Day (or week as it tends to be now) is a significant and important money-spinner for the Irish economy. The once somewhat sombre tone to it has been cast aside. The churches mightn't be as full as they once were, but there's no sign of straightened times in the pubs on 17 March.

An Irish-Colombian mix for St Patrick's Day in Bogotá.

Personally, I've always been indifferent towards our national holiday. Thus, that I haven't been home for one since 2011 is no big deal.

Nonetheless, it doesn't pass without being acknowledged here in Bogotá. For one, you've a number of (badly) Irish-styled pubs in the city that know the day exists and do their best to get the numbers in. 

The problem with most of those venues is that they're ridiculously overpriced; $100,000 Colombian pesos won't get you too far in them. And considering many Colombians who are keen to recognise St Patrick's Day with a drink or two say they like to do it with genuine Irish people, you're less likely to find us in such establishments (unless we're being, um, sponsored).

What's more, with a small and scattered Irish community in Bogotá, not much in terms of organised celebrations took place in the past.

That changed a little last year thanks to the support of the Irish embassy in Mexico (we're still waiting for an embassy to open here!).

Building on that, this year members of the Irish community have got together to organise a gathering for all those who want to 'wet the shamrock', as we say (see the accompanying photo flyer, above, for details).

There'll even be some traditional Irish music on the night from the Colombian (yes, Colombian!) group Paddy's Season.

So if you're looking for something slightly more Irish (whatever that is exactly) this St Patrick's Day, you could do worse than come along to this get together.

Plus, with 17 March being a Friday, most of us don't have to worry about an early start the next day. A potentially 'close-to-perfect Paddy's' then.

P.S: Some of the Irish are also planning a late afternoon meet up, before the Cervecería Gigante event, at the bust of General Daniel O'Leary, a gesture that was started back in 2015.

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Restrengthening the Irish-Latino links

For a small country without a history of conquest, the Irish do certainly get around. Of course, the chief reason most left and still leave the island was and is for economic reasons. Ireland has only ever been able to sustain a certain number; whether it could or should be able for a greater population doesn't concern us here for now.

Understandably enough, other English-speaking countries such as Australia, Britain, Canada and the USA are the popular go-to locations. Yet, Paddy doesn't limit himself to just those places. There aren't many spots on the globe in which he hasn't set foot.

President Michael D. Higgins arrives in Colombia.

In terms of Latin America, the Irish links here are relatively strong, as we've written about on previous occasions (see With O'Leary in Bogotá and Remembering Casement's Colombian connection). 

What's more, it has been said that the Irish are (or at least were) the Latinos of Europe, be that good, bad or indifferent (somewhat disorganised, left-leaning, former colonies with a happy-go-lucky disposition, something along those lines).

However, it could be argued, anecdotally if in no other way, that these ties have weakened somewhat. Or at least the Irish blood hasn't been as prominent in Latin affairs as it was previously.

Thus, President Michael D. Higgins' historic state visits to Colombia, Cuba and Peru are an opportunity to restrengthen those links.

For one, during his stay in Peru, it was announced that Lima is to open an embassy in Ireland (no word on Dublin returning the 'favour', though).

Here in Colombia, where official relations between the two countries have been almost non-existent through the years,* foreign minister María Ángela Holguín will sign a Memorandum of Understanding with Ireland to foster political consultation between both states. 

According to an official statement from the Colombian president's office, this memorandum will act as a declaration to set in motion a cultural and sporting exchange as a way to contribute to social cohesion and consolidate peace. It sounds like a good idea, in theory anyway.

Alongside this, both Michael D. and his counterpart Juan Manuel Santos are to discuss potential investment opportunities, as well as business and tourism promotion. As part of the latter, perhaps the Irish delegation will consider removing the tedious tourist visa requirement for Colombians who want to visit Ireland?

On that front, President Higgins spoke about Ireland being "a bridge to Europe for Colombians", during his keynote address in Bogotá on Monday. Eh, Colombians can rightly question, why bother to attempt to cross a dodgy bridge when there's an easier direct route?

We can also ask the question, bearing in mind Colombia's strategic location and the fact that Buenos Aires and Mexico City are the only cities in Latin America where Ireland has embassies, is it time one was opened here?

That aside, expect similar political announcements of greater official cooperation to come from Cuba, where the Irish president finishes up this three-country trip.

It's all diplomatic manoeuvring, of course. The success or otherwise of such things depends on the people on the ground. Or getting the actual people on the ground as the case may be.

From an investment-in-Colombia perspective, now might be as good a time as ever to strike. 

For those of us who have called the place home for a while but are still somewhat doubting our futures here, the words of one Irish long-termer are worth noting: 'If you can't make it here, you can't make it anywhere.' Perhaps. However, this does beg the question:: 'Do we want to make it here?' It might not be time to run just yet.

*Footnote: Diplomatic relations between Colombia and the Republic of Ireland have only been in place since November 1999.
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All hail the TV gods

Wanted: Enthusiastic people to take anything from six to 24 hours out of their day (with the promise of more days to come), be ordered around like dogs when needed, virtually walked over when not. Food may or may not be included, it depends on how the employers feel. Same goes for payment.

It should be a case of 'show me the money' when you get miked up.

'Any takers?' 

'Eh, no thank you!' 

'But it's for television.' 

'Me!' 'Me!' 'Me!' 'Me!' 'Me!'

Ah yes, what some of us little people will put ourselves through just to get on television. The lure of the camera makes certain folk lose all perspective.

Some are what we call 'media whores', those who stop at nothing to get a bit of exposure. It's a tad off the mark to actually call them 'whores', as a lot of the time they're happy to prostitute themselves out to the media lords for free.

The thinking behind this is that the "nobody" will become a "somebody", thereby reaching a position where they can demand payment (for example, Bart Simpson, accidental as it was, as the 'I didn't do it kid' and more recently all those seeking fame and "recognition" via YouTube).

Others aren't quite as, um, in your face or driven as the above, but they still get weak at the knees when the chance to be on TV comes along.

Thus, with a number of people acting in such a subservient manner towards the TV gods, it's little wonder that the industry's powers that be take advantage of the situation. Why pay people for something that they'll willingly do for free, or practically for free anyway?

In countries such as Colombia, this mentality appears worse than in more, let's say affluent places. There are a number of factors at play in this.

First, for outside productions, which predominantly come from the USA, the costs of filming here are generally cheaper. Wage demands for personnel hired on location, those used both on- and off-screen, are much lower than the country of origin. No big surprise there, the cost of living in Colombia is lower (for most) after all.

Then we've locals with next to nothing in terms of income and future prospects, so any sort of "easy money" they can make is taken, understandably, without question. There's also the steady stream of backpackers passing through the country who jump at the chance to do some 'glamorous' extras work, regardless of pay.

On top of all this you've a host of greedy agents, all trying to pocket as much as they can from the people they send to film.

Now, the argument can be made that the payments offered are fine in a Colombian context. Again, it depends on how you look at it, where you come from and what exactly you're being asked to do. For one, in terms of basic extra work, foreigners tend to be paid better than locals, receiving up to five times more.

When it comes to landing speaking parts, some agencies pay little better than what they give extras. The problem here is that landing even just a small role can rule you out of working on that production again, unlike being a standard extra. What's more, you generally have to go to castings and learn lines for these more prominent parts.

For example, I was paid 180,000 Colombian pesos (less than 60 euros) for my little speaking part in Narcos II, practically the same as extras pay. It now appears I can't be in Narcos again, so from a monetary point of view, I was robbed (for the record, other agencies offer at least 500,000 Colombian pesos for speaking parts).

Considering the amount of money the likes of Fox, Netflix and Univsion -- to name but a few of the companies that film in Colombia -- have in their coffers, there's no reason why they can't be more financially generous to those at the bottom rung.

That they're not may be more to do with the agencies on the ground than the production companies themselves. The former are doing their bit in maintaining and deepening the gap between rich and poor. They're certainly not doing us any favours, despite what they might like us to think.

Some of us poorer folk are not only happy to let all this happen, but we also help them along the way as well. Hey, it's all-powerful TV after all; thou shalt not question its wisdom.
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Rediscovering the joie de vivre

Back in late 2007, during my first full-time radio job, the general manager of the station in question, a recently-appointed Portuguese man, took to me one side and said, "Brendan, you've lost your joie de vivre."

While he mightn't have been totally correct that at 22 years of age I wasn't happy with life in general, I was certainly dissatisfied with some, largely work-related aspects, and this obviously showed in my behaviour. Like many, I wear my heart on my sleeve.

Contemplating the future. The answers lie within ...

In many ways, that period marked the beginning of a new departure. In a few months I had left that radio station to take up an ill-fated editor position at another one. Before 2008 was out, I'd my backpack in tow, embarking on a 10-month adventure that took me around South America, New Zealand, Australia and parts of South-East Asia.

A return to broadcasting and Ireland followed, before, once again, wanderlust took over. South America was calling. After an initial three-month stint in Santiago de Chile, it was Colombia that became the base in late 2011. That's pretty much how it has been since.

Of course, starting off in a new country from scratch, that is to say moving without a job already secured or any clear plan, makes things a little more difficult. It takes time to get established. 

What's more, in many developing countries such as Colombia, working freelance in an unstable sector and earning the local currency means it's not easy to get into a comfortable situation financially speaking.

Personally, the first two to three years here had enough adventure and excitement, as well as a trickle of cash flowing in, to keep me relatively content. Heck, there was even (and still is, minus the same excitement) the odd TV 'super extra' gigs. The joie de vivre was there.

However, in the last couple of years, this has been on the wane. Again, the root cause seems more job related than anything else. The accidental teacher has become tired with his lot. 

The mediocrity has gone on a few years too many truth be told. On that score, the ante has been upped of late to find something more fulfilling, whatever that may be and wherever that may take me.

It must be pointed out that it's not exactly the location that I've grown tired of; Colombia and even Bogotá itself still excite. However, once you become mired in one important element, even if it is not exactly place specific, it can be difficult to focus on the many other positives. The grey cloud darkens all.

That notwithstanding, another, not-insignificant aspect that isn't exactly a roaring success is in the dating game (yes, here we go yet again).

The Colombia, nay Bogotá, I feel compatible with, at home in, is the tienda, what you might call more campesino/country style of life. Now, this isn't just from a price perspective, as has been explained before.

Unfortunately, in terms of most of the Colombianas I've been attracted to and tried to have something with, going out in such places is anathema to them. The ridiculously overpriced, fancier but fake locations are anathema to me. Plus, as someone who likes to try to be honest from the get-go, it tends to work against you here.

Yes, I've wasted time and money with too many interesadas, but it's generally the nature of the fauna in these parts.

Unlike the work situation, the above is more a problem of place, an incompatibility of sorts (but not in all cases, it's just 'compatibility' has been harder to find of late; you could say I've become more stubborn, not less!).

Looking at it all together, it's not that things aren't working or the joie de vivre is gone, it's just that it's not going exactly how I'd like. Of course, many people live their whole lives that way, a reluctant acceptance of their lot.

As long as you're still breathing, though, there's always time to change and explore other options. For a singleton without children to care for, this is even more so the case.
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